Marc Daniel Heimgartner is a renowned perfumer celebrated for his expressive, passionate, and versatile fragrances. With many years of experience, his creations are driven by a deep curiosity about the world and a profound love for his craft. Marc Daniel draws inspiration from various sources, including artistic design, modern architecture, jazz music, and the delights of culinary exploration. I first discovered Marc’s exceptional talent when I experienced his remarkable fragrance, Chrysalide by L’Arc Parfums, which has become a cherished addition to my collection. Recently, he captivated the social media landscape with his exquisite creation, Masa by Kajal, a fruity, sweet, and refreshing scent housed in an impressive green bottle. Curious to learn more about his remarkable career and artistic creations, I had the opportunity to catch up with Marc and delve deeper into his world.
Can you share a bit about your background and how you got started in the world of perfumery?
My career as a perfumer began 27 years ago. Overall, I have been working in the chemical industry for over 35 years. In my early days, I worked as a chemical laboratory technician, quality control manager, and expert panellist, where I extracted foodstuff and complex raw materials and analysed various components. An industry specialist recognised my talent for olfactory expression and encouraged me to pursue a career in perfumery. This led me to undergo three years of perfumer training in Switzerland.
What inspired you to become a perfumer? Is there a particular moment or experience that sparked your passion?
Since my early childhood, I have been fascinated by scents and the beauty of chemistry. I had an insatiable curiosity for smells and would explore everything that had a distinct aroma. Whether it was the release of geosmin after a summer rain shower, the smell of gasoline, toasted bread, or various natural scents like Tuberose and ylang-ylang, I was captivated by the olfactory world. My passion was sparked by these experiences and the way scents can evoke emotions and memories.
How would you describe your signature style or approach when creating fragrances?
I love to create fragrances with an eclectic style, often incorporating an Arabic or oriental touch. I draw inspiration from music and art, as I believe creativity thrives on interpretation and improvisation. My approach is detailed and mysterious, and I constantly seek to expand my knowledge and discover new ideas. I strive to learn something new every day, and this curiosity informs my unique creations.
What challenges have you encountered in your career as a perfumer, and how have you overcome them?
As a perfumer, I have faced various challenges, such as environmental influences, conflicts, regulatory changes, and the ever-changing landscape of the fragrance industry. However, I am passionate and determined to overcome these obstacles. I never give up on making the impossible possible in fragrance creation. Despite the challenges, the joy of putting a smile on people’s faces with my creations keeps me motivated.
You recently created a perfume with Kajal Parfums called Masa, how long did it take to create and what was the inspiration behind it?
The inspiration behind Masa was the multifaceted glowing single diamond, which I translated into a unique aquatic fragrance with an addictive ambery woody base. The collaboration with Kajal Parfums was incredible, and the creation process was relatively quick compared to other projects. I received the briefing in mid-June, finalized the fragrance in mid-October, and had the opportunity to discuss and refine the scent with the global Kajal team. The fragrance features fresh ginger, bergamot, a herbaceous aromatic accord with rosemary and petitgrain, and a transparent aquatic accord inspired by the mystic Gulf of Corrywreckan.
How do you stay updated with the latest trends and developments in the fragrance industry?
To stay updated with the latest trends and developments in the fragrance industry, I believe in a holistic approach. I explore the entire path of fragrance creation, from the extraction of raw materials to the final product. I stay connected to historical fragrance habits and culturally relevant connections. Additionally, I keep myself informed about the modern fragrance industry, including both current and discontinued products and fragrances. I travel to experience new trends and pay attention to local olfactive habits. Being open-minded and continuously learning and exploring are essential in keeping up with the dynamic fragrance industry.
Are there any specific ingredients or notes that you particularly enjoy working with? Why?
A successful scent requires a delicate balance and interaction of ingredients, with aesthetics that perfectly match the desired consumer group or market requirements. I particularly enjoy working with synthetic high-priced molecules, mainly musks and ambery elements, in combination with precious naturals or upcycled ingredients. Some of my favourite naturals include molecular distilled Patchouly, ethically sourced Oud and Sandalwood, Pink peppercorn, Ginger, Rose Oil, Magnolia Blossom, and Orris (Iris). Additionally, I love experimenting with new flavour combinations in food and drink pairings at home.
What role does storytelling play in your fragrance creations? Do you aim to evoke specific emotions or memories through your scents?
In the case of Masa, storytelling played a significant role. We wanted to incorporate the specific green colour, the story of the single diamond, and the lunar moon phase. Beyond that, we focused on using high-quality ingredients to maintain and extend the unique Kajal signature. I strive to touch people’s noses and hearts with my fragrance creations, stimulating and reactivating their hidden olfactive memories and emotions.
How do you balance the demands of commercial viability with artistic expression when creating a fragrance?
Creating fragrances is an art form, a craft that requires intuition and a touch of melancholy. Polarising or extravagant olfactive concepts can be fascinating while maintaining aesthetics. Each olfactive concept is unique, and I enjoy challenging myself with the daily restrictions, new demands, and requests that arise. This includes considerations such as Eco Cert, Cosmos, Nordic Ecolabelling, Cradle to Cradle, nature, limitations on raw materials, changes in laws, and fragrance-free products. Occasionally, our creativity is limited by volatile market circumstances, new customer fragrance policies, or regulatory-based fragrance reworks.
What advice would you give to aspiring perfumers who are just starting their journey in this industry?
I will explain it in three thought-provoking quotes:
“Be yourself; everyone else is already taken” (Oscar Wilde).
“Information is not knowledge; the only source of knowledge is experience” (Albert Einstein).
“We learn from failure, not from success!” (Bram Stoker).
You can check out my review of Masa by Kajal on my Instagram.
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