It has been a year of many firsts for me as I tumble gleefully down the rabbit hole of fragrance. Last week I was kindly invited to Pitti Fragranze, a prestigious global gathering centred around fragrance and beauty. Held in the historic Italian city of Florence, this renowned event celebrated its 21st edition attracting buyers, press and fragrance enthusiasts from all over the world. This year the theme was Perception Reinvented, a concept exploring the psychedelic and holographic aspects of the world of fragrances. Stepping under the rustic arches of Stazione Leopolda (Florence’s first train station built in 1848) my eyes widened and nostrils flared ready to explore the 189 brands displaying their products. Even with the time that I had, I wasn’t able to get around every brand at the show but here are the brands that personally stood out at this years Pitti Fragranze.
While browsing through Milan’s famous perfume boutique, Zhor Perfumes, in March, I discovered the captivating niche fragrance brand Rito, and couldn’t wait to see them at Pitti Fragranze. What initially caught my attention were their architecturally inspired bottles and sleek monochromatic design. With great excitement, I eagerly explored each fragrance in their collection and instantly became captivated by their unique creations. Currently, the range consists of four fragrances: Reserva IX (Floral Woody Musk), Cuore d’Oud (Amber), Oltre (Woody), and Blackout (Oudy).
During my conversation with the founders, Stefano Torreggiani and Davide Martini at Pitti, I had the opportunity to sample their upcoming fifth edition. Created by perfumer Miguel Matos, the impressive Gran Gala will be released later this year, and I must say it perfectly aligns with my taste with a unique combination of Tuberose, Cocoa and Tobacco. A detailed review of this fragrance will follow soon.
An exciting aspect of Rito’s offerings are their use of technology to combat counterfeit products. By simply holding your phone near the bottle, it transports you to their website where you can authenticate the bottle using a unique number. Although Rito is not currently available in the UK, they are actively working towards bringing their creations to our shores. I eagerly await their arrival!
This exceptional Korean brand couldn’t have chosen a more fitting name, as their remarkable presence and bustling stand were a testament to their uniqueness. Offering a diverse range off products spanning apparel, art, interior goods, body care, and, of course, fragrance, their DNA revolves around contemporary creativity that continuously pushes boundaries. Although currently exclusively available at Bloom Perfumery in London, it’s undeniable that this brand is set to make waves in the UK fragrance market. With a delightful touch of sweetness at its core, I was already captivated, but it was the allure of fragrances like Indecent Cherry, Naked Neroli, and Sex & Cognac that particularly caught my attention. Furthermore, I had the pleasure of indulging in a sneak preview of some of their upcoming releases, and let me assure you, they are charting a whole new course for gourmand fragrances.
Meeting Jonathan Dufour, the founder of fragrance house Spiritum Paris, was an absolute delight. He introduced me to the Numerus collection, a series of nine fragrances, each individually numbered and associated with a specific life path number. These numbers can be calculated using the details of your birthdate. Throughout the range, there is a consistent essence of Sage, Sandalwood, and Incense, creating a distinct Spiritum vibe. However, each fragrance possesses its unique qualities.
As my life path number was 9, I was drawn to the fragrance called Final Spirit. It opens with a beautiful burst of bright floral sweetness and gradually settles into a rich, woody base. Although you are not limited to your life path number, I found that number 9 suited me exceptionally well.
Be sure to keep your eyes (and nose) peeled for the new release called Shamanism, which is inspired by the founder’s first shamanic ceremony. This fragrance combines top notes of Pink Berries with an abundant heart of Cedar, Jasmine, and Cinnamon, and ultimately settles on a warm base of Incense and Musk. It’s certainly an exciting addition to the Spiritum Paris collection.
I instantly gravitated towards Hunq, a captivating collection of fragrances inspired by various archetypes of men such as the Gardener, Barman, Carpenter, Lifeguard, and Mechanic. Based in Amsterdam, this unique world of scents offers a delightful experience as you explore each fragrance and choose the Hunq that resonates with you. Personally, I thoroughly enjoyed the process (I mean who doesn’t like to be surrounded by Hunqs) and found myself drawn to the Gardener scent, which effortlessly combines freshness, playfulness, and a hint of warmth.
Kajal never fails to captivate the senses, drawing crowds with its irresistible fragrant allure at every show I attend. As a long-time admirer of this brand’s exceptional craftsmanship and imaginative scents, I eagerly awaited the opportunity to experience their two latest creations firsthand, spurred on by tantalising glimpses shared on social media. This new release showcases a striking juxtaposition: Kajal III, an invigorating and spicy herbal fragrance with a comforting undertone, and Kajal IV, a deeper, more mysterious blend with hints of leather. Both scents possess their own unique beauty, but I found myself naturally drawn to Kajal III, which I’ll soon be reviewing on my platform. Additionally, I must commend Kajal for their artful design of vibrant, colourful bags at each show—an item cherished by collectors and a brilliant marketing strategy that perfectly represents their brand.
Emerging from the heart of Paris in 2019, OHTOP is a captivating French-Korean lifestyle brand. It has recently unveiled a collection of five unisex fragrances that are bound to leave a lasting impression. With intriguing names like Fleur d’Oh, Green Flannel, I Hate Rose, Ohsphalte, and Paranoïaque, they effortlessly stand out from the crowd. Amongst them, Paranoïaque, crafted by perfumer Christian Carbonnel, held a particular allure. Aptly described by the brand as “Madness in a Bottle,” this fragrance boldly combines contrasting scent families. Citruses, Spices, Greens, Flowers, and Woods intertwine in a harmonious symphony, creating an olfactory crescendo that is truly mesmerising.
Coquet Vadou – Alexx and Anton
Alexx and Anton, the dynamic duo that exuded unparalleled style at Pitti, left me in awe with their remarkable pair of fragrances—Coquet and Vadou. Each scent serves as a reflection of their creative prowess and personal introspection, evident in the carefully selected notes and the vessel colours they chose. Coquet entices with a captivating blend of Spicy, Sweet, and Amber Foral accords, while Vadou delves into the mystical realms of voodoo, intertwining Earthy, Woody, and Spiritually inspired nuances. Adding to the allure, the vessels themselves are meticulously crafted by a talented Japanese artist, their delicate beauty resonating amidst the backdrop of booming techno beats. This is precisely what I adore about the brand—it seamlessly intertwines playfulness with sheer elegance, while embodying a profound vein of artistic brilliance at its very core.
While strolling through the various stands, I was delighted to stumble upon Jorum Studio, an independent fragrance brand hailing from my enchanting city, Edinburgh. Memories of their humble beginnings flooded my mind, recalling the days when I visited their captivating pop-up store and became entranced by their truly unique creations. This time, my attention was instantly drawn to their latest collection, the Scottish Odyssey range, housed in sleek glass bottles adorned with vibrant, eye-catching labels. Each fragrance within this collection draws inspiration from Scottish folklore, delving into the very essence of the country’s attitude, humour, and culture. Amongst them, Pony Boy captured my heart, as a snap of tart Rhubarb intertwines with Spicy, Green, and Woody nuances, creating an olfactory experience that is simply irresistible.
Coreterno, a name that embodies eternal heart, stands as a boundary-pushing Italian brand that seamlessly combines fragrance, candles, and fashion into a mesmerising fusion. Their collection showcases a captivating array of archetypal Rock and Pop symbols, nineteenth-century portraits, illustrations, and antique engravings, all infused with a contemporary twist that exudes a modern-vintage allure. Encased within opulent black and gold bottles, adorned with names like Freakincense, Hardkor, and Punk Motel, this brand effortlessly balances luxury and coolness. Among their remarkable offerings, Mystic Sugar held a special place in my heart—a sensual gourmand fragrance that opens with luscious fruits and transcends into a harmonious blend of smoothness, spiciness, and sweetness.
There’s nothing quite like attending these shows and immersing myself in the world of fragrances, allowing me to forge deeper connections with the brands that bring these creative endeavours to life. Meeting the individuals behind these projects adds an extra layer of magic to the fragrance experience, unveiling the immense work, passion, and dedication that fuel the process. This year’s show unveiled a notable trend among brands: a fearlessness in pushing boundaries through unique presentations and the use of novel and unconventional ingredients. It was particularly intriguing to witness the rising prominence of Gourmand fragrances, a phenomenon hardly surprising considering the growing number of enthusiasts falling head over heels for this fragrance family. Moreover, storytelling and interaction took centre stage, with technology seamlessly woven into the fabric of the exhibits, and feathers, flowers, and tarot cards taking the place of traditional blotters. Pitti Fragranze provided me with a distinctive glimpse into this realm of boundless creativity, leaving me filled with sheer delight as I witnessed the continued evolution of the fragrance world. I eagerly await what the future holds! Until we meet again next year, Pitti.
For more information on Pitti Fragranze check out their website.
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