As the Creative Director of Thameen London, Christopher Chong has brought a fresh perspective to the brand. He has energetically infused it with a sense of joviality and excitement whilst still retaining their British Heritage DNA. His unique ideas, coupled with his ability to tell captivating olfactory stories, have earned Thameen London a new following of fragrance connoisseurs. With the recent release of the Britologne collection, noses have been twitching and everyone has been wondering what exciting creations will be coming next.
I was immediately intrigued by Christopher’s no-nonsense unfiltered persona which I find utterly refreshing in this highly censored world. I believe this vivacity is why he has become so successful in a career that as he put it ‘chose him’. I was keen to catch up with Christopher and find out more about his background and how he came to work for the renowned British brand Thameen London.
Can you share a bit about your background and how you got started in the fragrance industry?
I come from an academic and classical music background. I spent many years in academia pursuing a PhD in literature, cultural studies, fashion history, modern philosophy (the post and neo this and that trendy stuff) and psychoanalysis. It sounded like a lot, but they were interlinked with each other in my subject, which was the semiotics of subversive and perversive fashion. I didn’t complete the degree because opera found me and I switched to spending over 10 years training to be a lyric baritone. As for fragrance, I never imagined I would end up in that profession. All my life, I wanted to be a professor moonlighting as a critic slagging off everything or an international opera singer throwing tantrums in famous opera houses around the world.
I’m still in a state of shock and confusion about how someone like me ended up in the fragrance industry, especially someone with no chemistry or perfume-love background. It was one inconsequential opportunity that I took with tongue-in-cheek humour, which turned into a passion that I didn’t know I had. Life plays tricks on us all the time. I couldn’t be whom I wanted, so the universe threw fragrances at me. Depending on how you see it, it could be seen as a consolation prize or penance.
What inspired you to become a creative director of a luxury fragrance brand?
I feel it sounds arrogant to say that it chose me. There’s never been a plan or any strategy for me to be the creative head of a fragrance brand. It hit me hard without any notice and it happened twice. I think I was the first one to be called a “Creative Director” of a fragrance brand in those early days of niche perfumery. When I started, no one knew what a Creative Director in perfumery was. LOL. I spent many years explaining it to the media and customers. Then, all of a sudden, it became a trendy job title. In my heyday, everyone called themselves a perfumer. Well, some still do.
To be honest, I couldn’t give a f*ck about titles. I think I should create a new title – NO TITLE. Lol
How would you describe your creative vision and approach when developing new fragrances?
I don’t believe in mood boards or anything like that. It’s too textbook and archaic for my style. For me, it begins with a feeling. It’s like this burst of fresh air slapping me in the face. It comes from inside. I get this urge to tell a story. In the beginning, it doesn’t always make sense. It doesn’t need to make sense at the development stage – the crazier the better. In the next stage, I imagine what this story would smell like in terms of style and ingredients. It’s still very conceptual at this stage. Then I think about the perfumers, especially the ones with whom I have an affinity. The magic begins when we can talk about the project and laugh about our interpretations and approaches. Laughter is key. We explore ingredients and accords and do our best, especially me, to make the story sound more coherent.
You might ask how we know when the perfume is completed. It’s the feeling. You just know it.
Could you highlight some key milestones or highlights from your career in the fragrance industry?
Every creative moment is a milestone. Just to be able to share my vision with the world is the greatest feeling ever.
If I have to list some highlights, then I must name-drop some iconic perfumers whom I have seen as mentors. They are the most profound working sessions with Alberto Morillas, Pierre Negrin, Olivier Cresp, Nathalie Lorson, and Annick Menardo. I have been so fortunate that I learned so much just from working with them. Every working session was just pure magic. I think I learned more from those sessions than I could ever imagine if I had gone to perfume school.
Most recently, I am so blessed to count Bruno Jovanovic as a perfume friend in addition to being my olfactive guiding light. He’s always someone whom I can depend on to bitch slap me when required. With Alexandra Carlin, I find an amazing woman who is naturally and instinctually talented. She’s extremely rare because she looks for beauty beyond what she smells.
What sets Thameen London’s fragrances apart from others in the luxury market?
Thameen London is the only contemporary British brand that’s founded with diversity at its core. I love the brand spirit of exploring British heritage and culture with an inclusivity ethos. For example, our perfumes are created to be “genderful” because we believe in promoting positivity and plurality.
Are there any specific themes or narratives that you often explore through your fragrance collections?
I love the 70s sexual freedom and 80s greed. I look at the late 90s Cool Britannia movement for encouragement. With whatever theme or period I’m exploring, I always look at it from the sexual and decadent abandonment of those decades.
How do you ensure that your fragrances evoke a sense of luxury and exclusivity?
This is not something for me to decide. It’s up to the person who’s wearing it to decide if it’s luxury and exclusive for her. I think those terms are so irrelevant. I want to be progressive and inclusive, meaning that I want to be constantly inquisitive and explore new ideas that I haven’t tried.
Can you tell us about a fragrance from Thameen or any other brand that holds a special significance for you?
The first one is Versace L’Homme. It takes me back to one of those “sliding doors” moments. The fragrance always reminds me of the vanity of youth, lost love and what if.
The second one is Santa Maria Novella’s Melogano because it’s the same scent used in their dog shampoo. It gives me a lot of comfort knowing that I share the same scent as my dog.
How do you stay ahead of trends in the fragrance industry while maintaining a distinct brand identity?
I don’t think about it because I stay in my zone or bubble. As I said, it begins with the feelings. I don’t even smell what other brands are doing and never think about expectations. Stay focused and be true to yourself. I don’t let the democratisation of opinions from the digital world lead me astray. I don’t expect to be loved by everyone. It’s a fact of life. Some will support you and some will slaughter you no matter what you do. Humanity is dark and complicated. Trust and love yourself – that’s the most important trend.
Are there any upcoming projects or collaborations that you’re particularly excited about in the world of fragrance?
Yes and many! Thameen London is going to rock the perfume market with a “Je m’en fous” attitude. I think I may even shock myself. It always sounds better in French.
Find out more about Thameen London here. Check out my review of Fanfare and Bohemian Infusion.
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