Esxence 2024

As my plane touched down in a rather rainy Italy, I was already filled with excitement as I was here to attend Esxence 2024. The prestigious fragrance fair held each year in Milan never fails to captivate with its olfactory delights and innovative creations, and this year was no exception. With an impressive selection of 360 fragrance brands from 30 different countries I could already sense that this one was going to be another whirlwind of fragrant wonder. This year’s theme was Metamorphosis alluding to the continuous changes and evolvement of the natural materials that compose the fragrance, the sense of smell and even the fragrance industry.

Stepping into the vibrant world of Esxence 2024, the air was already filled with a symphony of scents and a palpable buzz of excitement from the queue of people with nothing more than fragrance on the mind. Navigating through the bustling aisles, I was instantly greeted by a kaleidoscope of brands, each vying for attention with their unique fragrances and backdrops. From the classic elegance of niche houses to the daring to new and emerging perfumers, every booth exuded creativity and passion.

Notable Brands

As I wandered from booth to booth, I was struck by the artistry and craftsmanship that went into each bottle of perfume. The meticulous attention to detail, the carefully curated ingredients, and the sheer dedication of the perfumers shone through in so many scents that I encountered. These were some brands that really stood out to me:

At Esxence, I had a wonderful meeting with Ludovic Bonneton, the creator of the luxury perfume brand Bon Parfumeur. The brand offers a collection of fragrances inspired by the founder’s memories. Each fragrance is associated with a specific colour representing its scent family, includes three key ingredients, and is numbered based on its creation time. I was especially fond of 302, featuring Amber, Iris, and Sandalwood, but I’m eagerly anticipating their upcoming gourmand fragrance release that truly captivated my senses.

Mystikum, with its chic and elegant bottles, immediately grabbed my attention. Originating in the 1920s, the brand has been revitalised with a contemporary twist while still honouring its glamorous history. Among their fragrances, my favourite was The Need To Fly, a fresh and deep aromatic chypre blend.

Filippo Sorcinelli’s latest Memento collection features eight fragrances presented in distinctive bottles resembling priestly hands invoking “Memento” before a mass in a sacristy. The stand, adorned with a large golden hand sculpture, drew constant crowds. My top pick was Notre Dame Notte Di Natale, drawing inspiration from the sacristy drawers of a Paris cathedral, blending woody incense notes with comforting undertones and a surprising hint of chocolate.

Welton London, whom I first encountered at ScentXplore in New York, showcased an impressive range of fragrances accented in my favourite colour, blue. At Esxence, they introduced their new Golden Elixir Collection, featuring refillable Extrait de Perfumes focusing on three key ingredients: Myrrh, Leather, and Saffron—all three were exceptional.

Kajal, a brand I always prioritise visiting at such events, stood out for their team’s passion and dedication, making time for each visitor despite their busy schedule. Their latest release, Äican, looks promising and aligns perfectly with current trends that I observed at the show.

Fugazzi never fails to captivate with their blend of creativity, fragrance, and fun. Their latest exhibit at the poolside featured blue tiles, shimmering lights, and towelling toiletry bags, all contributing to the swimming pool theme. Among their fragrances, Mood Swings, a captivating Amber woody scent, stood out as an impressive addition.

Electimuss London’s Cupid’s Kiss, crafted by perfumer Julien Rasquinet, generated buzz and excitement at the event. A meet and greet with the perfumer provided me with further insights into the fragrance’s inspiration. I absolutely love its energetic and vibrant start, quickly leading to a warm embrace—a review with more details is coming soon.

Engaging with Parfums De Gabor is always a pleasure, and this year, their latest release, Alchermes, housed in a sultry red vessel, caught my eye. Gabriel explained how the new scent is inspired by the historic Florentine liqueur Alkermes, boasting rich and unique aromas that instantly captured my heart.

Gabriel Gabor – Founder of Parfums de Gabor

Notable Trends

Florals

To paraphrase Miranda Priestley, “Florals for Spring? Groundbreaking!” But bare with me as I delve into one of the notable floral trends I’ve observed: the resurgence of Tuberose. While glimpses of this trend emerged in 2023, it has truly blossomed this year. Tuberose, historically deemed seductive, was even prohibited to European girls during the Renaissance for fear of inciting forbidden thoughts. Although not everyone’s preferred floral due to its intense aroma, I discovered a few delightful options. Etat De Grâce by Plume Impression particularly caught my attention, offering an elegant blend of soft woods and tonka bean. Additionally, Tuberóza X Nishane which debuted in Milan, outside of Esxence as another great rendition.

Gourmands

I anticipated gourmand scents to be seasonal, primarily for winter, but it appears that they have become a permanent fixture. Ingredients like chocolate, coffee, creamy nuts, coconut, and intriguing fruit pairings have garnered attention. Gourmand Kings, Born to Stand Out known for their bold and risqué creations, caused a buzz with their latest fragrance, Drunk Maple. As one might expect, it exudes a boozy, syrupy essence that lingers for the longest time. And the good news is that it’s now available to buy in the UK at Bloom Perfumery.

Fruits

In recent years, cherries have made a significant appearance (and no, that’s not a metaphor). While the cherry trend has slightly subsided, it appears that these luscious dark fruits are here to stay. However, I’ve also observed other fruits taking center stage, including banana, pear, rhubarb, pineapple, passion fruit, and raspberry. Particularly noteworthy is the emergence of the peach, which featured prominently in several fragrances. One standout example is Peach’s Revenge by Sarah Baker, boasting a juicy, modern, and spicy fusion that certainly caught everyone’s attention.

Beyond the perfumes themselves, what truly made Esxence 2024 special was the sense of community that permeated the event. From engaging conversations with fellow enthusiasts to bonding over our favourite fragrances, I felt a sense of belonging among kindred spirits who shared my passion for all things scented. As the last day drew to a close, I left Esxence 2024 with a heart full of memories and a newfound appreciation for the art of perfumery. The event had been a sensory feast for the soul, a celebration of creativity and innovation that left me inspired and invigorated.