Matiere Premiere, or ‘Raw Materials’ to you and me, is a collection of genderless fragrances released in 2019 by esteemed perfumer Aurelien Guichard. As the name suggests, Matiere Premiere perfumes have been produced using the finest raw ingredients that nature has to offer. These natural raw materials have been expertly combined to create an exceptional range of scents, all of which have no synthetic colouring agents. The presentation of each bottle is both simplistic and contemporary, allowing you to view these stunning natural hues in all their glory. After visiting their headquarters in Paris and experiencing their rose harvest in Grasse, I’ve gained a fantastic bond and unique insight into this remarkable fragrance house.
Every time there is a new release from Matiere Premiere there is always a flurry of excitement and anticipation around what Aurelien Guichard will conjure up next and Crystal Saffron was no exception. Released in 2022 the fragrance undoubtedly revolves around the exotic spice of saffron. I am not going to lie, due to there being a deluge of saffron fragrances on the market recently, I was a tad worried that it would be yet another safe rendition but boy was I wrong. Yet again Matiere Premiere has taken a natural ingredient and accentuated it in the most unique way, providing an exceptional depiction of saffron that I certainly haven’t experienced before. Saffron, for those that may not know, is a precious spice made using the stigmas of the crocus flower. Picked at dawn whilst the purple flowers are still closed the crimson-red stigmas are painstakingly removed by hand. They are then slowly dried in the heat to create one of the most expensive spices in the world. In a fragrance, Saffron often exudes a warming leathery vibe and is mostly paired with rich darker notes. So it’s no surprise Matiere Premiere explored a different slant, turning saffron on its head to reveal a fresher and brighter interpretation.
From the moment I sprayed it onto the skin it was immediately evident that this fragrance is no shrinking violet. Greek saffron has been used by Matiere Premiere which is renowned for its brightness and vibrancy and it this reveals itself from the very beginning. It is almost as if the pistils of saffron have been flicked from a crisp white sheet, the deep red flecks dancing through the air whilst being emblazoned with shards of crisp sunlight. It’s not delicate by any standard but it has this amazing luminosity about it that prevents it from reaching those dusty hay qualities that sometimes saffron could exude. Before the saffron billows beyond your reach, a large dose of musk encapsulates it, this not only improves the tenacity of the scent but wraps it up this bubble of clean airiness. Ambroxan anchors it to the skin, embellishing it in the most creamy and addictive way that you will be unable to resist the temptation to repeatedly smell your wrist.
Crystal Saffron has this intriguing quality about it that allows the fragrance to continuously flirt between different shades, temperatures and textures. I imagine honey dripping over metal and reddish spice scattered over mirrored glass. It undulates between edgy and softness, coolness and warmth, capturing the attention of the wearer and passer-byes with its sheer magnetism. Everything about this fragrance is powerful and mighty, so over-squirters beware. What Matiere Premiere has done with this is propelled saffron into the future, a crimson-spiced metallic hybrid of a scent that manages to tick all of the fragrance boxes. Uniquely brilliant with unparalleled longevity, it is yet another fantastic addition to this exceptional and ever-growing fragrance house.
Blu Blazer Guy Rating:
Presentation – 4/5
Sillage – 5/5
Longevity – 5/5
Perfume Notes: Greek Saffron Oil, Habanolide Musk, Somalian Incense Oil, Ambroxan.
Perfume Concentration: Eau de Parfum
Available form Matiere Premiere and Selfridges £145.00 for 50ml
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