I first discovered Maison Crivelli in 2019 whilst on a visit to Paris, its striking modern orange and white branding immediately lured me in. A passionate advisor guided me around each of the fragrances and I was instantly captivated, you could even say it was love at first smell. Founded by Parisian born Thibaud Crivelli in 2018, this contemporary haute parfumerie has gone from strength to strength and you will now notice it grace the shelves of luxury UK department stores. Working with renowned perfumers from around the world, Thibaud has created some stunning and very artistic fragrances, all inspired by real-life memorable experiences. From sandalwood found by an erupting volcano to the discovery of roses near the ocean, each of the fragrant interpretations are unique and like nothing you have experienced before.
Recently launched in 2021 and unveiled at an exclusive event in Galeries Lafayette Champs Elysees, is the mystical Osmanthus Kōdoshān. This new addition to the range is said to be inspired by ‘an encounter with osmanthus flowers on a tropical mountain shrouded in a mist’. From my point of view, there isn’t a Maison Crivelli fragrance that I wouldn’t include in my fragrance collection. Therefore, as I came across this new addition, I was very intrigued. The packaging is simple, modern with a pop of vibrant orange, a plain canvas for an extraordinarily complex fragrance inside. The bottles are contemporary and elegant, with an embossed label and clear glass allowing the golden hues of the fragrance to be seen from within. The unique cap is a non-identical, unpolished zamac cap, each one embellished with the Maison Crivelli Monogram.
We all know that the first spray of a fragrance ignites the olfactory process in our brain, conjuring up images and memories that we associate with the different notes within. Maison Crivelli takes this to the next level by providing online images and sounds allowing you to completely immerse yourself in the fragrance, and experience them in a whole new way. Osmanthe Kōdoshān did just that for me with images such as mountains blanketed in mist, moss-covered rocks and towering bamboo I knew immediately that I would have a fondness towards Osmanthe Kōdoshān.
The scent starts with an unusual sweet liquorice-like nuance that swirls over a bed of delicate spices. A subtle underlying fruitiness gives way to an escalating warmth and you can begin to sense the vigorous Sichuan Pepper note reverberates from the skin. Along with the star-anise, these opening notes provides a boost of energy and vibrancy, ebbing and flowing between spicy, sweet and fruity aromas. This initial impression exudes an extremely compelling composition that prises you in from the very beginning.
The honeyed peachy/apricot characteristics of Osmanthus begin to develop in the most unexpected way. It exudes a depth as if the soft fruit has been baked under the sun, intensifying in nature and revealing an almost sticky jam-like aroma. This warm fruitiness is laced with nuances of smooth leather, adding another layer to this complex and captivating scent. I have a few fragrances in my collection that revolve around Osmanthus but I must say that Osmanthe Kōdoshān provides a very unique rendition. In my experience, Osmanthus usually reveals a bright fruity facet but here it seems to take on a deeper, darker and richer complexity that is truly captivating.
Black Tea Absolute and Tobacco Absolute combine to exude a swirl of smoke and incense that twist aimlessly through the fragrance. This is when Osmanthe Kōdoshān begins to delve down into a woody earthy base. The combination of spicy, fruity, leather notes remain in the background whilst the appearance of musky patchouli perpetuates those smoky aromas. In the end, the scent reveals a spicy-sweet amber accord with a delicate hint of freshness which I found extremely grounding and comforting. I can almost sense damp crushed tropical leaves, their fresh green aromas mixing with moist warm air.
Osmanthe Kōdoshān is yet another astonishing addition to what is already one of my favourite fragrance houses. Imagination and creativity exude from every drop and along with their online images and sounds, you get a true sense of the inspiration behind its creation. What I truly love about this scent is that its complex notes take you on an imaginary journey and that is when a fragrance truly makes an impression. With the fantastic imagination of Thibaud Crivelli and the renowned perfumers he works with, I look forward to seeing what Maison Crivelli conjures up next.
Blu Blazer Guy Rating:
Fragrance Concentration: Eau de Parfum
30ml £75.00 – Available from numerous outlets.