As the leaves start to turn a tinge of brown it is time to whisk myself off again to the beautiful Pitti Fragranze, located in Stazione Leopoldo in Florence. Pitti Fragranze is a fragrance fair showcasing a staggering 258 brands from all over the world and is now in its 23rd year. It is primarily a show where business takes place, buyers converge and new collaborations materialise. I, however, like to visit this prestigious show to get a taste of recent trends, discover new and interesting brands and of course foster relationships with brands I have worked with before.
With a predominant Italian presence (and rightly so) over the past few years, it was fantastic to see an increase in brands from further afield. Alongside a strong European collection, I noticed a definite rise in representation from Asia, which was a delight to see and a clear indication of their growing influence in the market.
As usual it was a joy to see Born to Stand Out, whose vibrant red stand stretched the length of the hall. Some may say it is brazen, but I love how they come from a place often seen as reserved and shy yet truly stand out in the crowd. With all their vessels on display I immediately homed in on their newest release, Dirty Milk. Milky fragrances are still enjoying huge popularity now, but many I have tried have felt a little too nice. BTSO have combined that smooth creamy sweetness with a dash of black pepper, bringing a touch of naughtiness into the mix. I am sure it will go down well with the lactonic ladies and lads.
One of my favourite finds was a French brand called Hellenist, whose fragrances and candles are inspired by the wonders of Greece. Their striking ceramic candles first caught my eye with their playful designs, while the scents inside felt both familiar and unique. I particularly liked their Figuier Sacré candle, their take on fig.
I must say I adored most of their fragrances but one really struck a chord, and I would go as far as saying it was my favourite of the show. Les Bras de Morphée (Morpheus’ Embrace) was a sensual, powdery and warming fragrance combining orris, violet and hazel tree. Even though my skin was already covered in a myriad of fragrant puddles, this one shone through throughout the day.
Atelier Vesper from the Netherlands lured me in with their sculptural stand, outstretched hands holding their fragrances and beckoning everyone closer. With simplistic and modern vessels, each fragrance had a wonderfully natural feel yet still carried depth and complexity.
I particularly enjoyed Amica Mea, a modern take on tuberose. It begins fresh and herbaceous before sinking into the creamy depths of the white floral, balanced by a beautiful powdery sweetness and underpinned with white oud. I never imagined oud and tuberose would work together, but it is a combination I will certainly try again in the future.
A romantic at heart, it doesn’t take much for me to fall for a good love story, and French brand L’eau Maliz certainly managed that. Inspired by the founder and her husband’s story, each fragrance delves into a particular moment in their lives, from the smoke-filled clubs where they met to the incense-filled church where they married. It is a fascinating olfactory journey. I was a little concerned at first that the fragrances would feel too personal, but each has been crafted so beautifully that they take you on your own journey. I adored Church Bells, with its infusion of sweet honey, combined with wooden pews and strands of incense. Comforting yet joyful at the same time.
I don’t know what it is just now, but I find myself drawn to playful packaging and bottles. Perhaps it is just me searching for a slice of happiness in such a chaotic world. So when I saw Swedish brand Carl Kling I had to investigate. They currently have only two fragrances, both centred around fig. Clary Fig feels more like the daytime version, with a fresh sparkling opening sweetened by fig and softened at the edges by smooth creamy sandalwood. Fig Nuit, my favourite of the two, is darker, richer and more sensual. It is almost as if the fig has dropped from the tree, split open, baked in the sun and, as night falls, releases its decadent sweetness into the air. To further enhance the experience, they have created matching body lotions, a great way to layer and intensify the fig theme.
Known for their calm light blue aesthetic and carefully crafted scented candles, lifestyle brand Amoln has stepped into the world of fine fragrance. Debuting at Pitti Fragranze, their new collection features eight distinctive scents, each offering something unique for a variety of preferences.
Staying true to Amoln’s minimalist design language, the fragrances are presented in simple glass bottles, topped with a striking metal cap embossed with the Amoln logo. This detail gives the bottle a clean and contemporary look that sets it apart.
A personal favourite was Truffle Truffle. As the name suggests, it highlights the unusual and captivating note of truffle, a rare ingredient in perfumery. It is a bold move, and one that reflects Amoln’s creative approach to fragrance.
South Korean brand Unvanish stopped me in my tracks with their pared-back yet elegant bottles (I promise I am not always a “judging a book by its cover” kind of person). Their fragrances are composed around the theme of memory, capturing the atmosphere of a moment, the emotion of an instant and the texture of something past. Divided into three categories – nature, love and sensuality – the collection takes you from a scenic walk along the shore, to a soft cuddle with a loved one, to a night of desire. They were all so lovely it was almost impossible to pick a favourite, but one that shone for me was The Third Night With Jin, a deep musky fragrance with warm rum and sweet nuances.
It was immediately clear how much passion founder Ankita Gill has poured into her brand Param Sara. Fuelled by her Indian roots, Param Sara takes us on a journey of enlightenment with their debut collection, Season 001. Although fragrance always touches our emotions, these creations resonated especially strongly with me. Perhaps it was the delirium of a long day, but they instantly made me feel calm and centred. I loved their take on mango in Mandala, with its greener character and a sun-filled heart of marigold and fruity osmanthus. I also adored The Bodhi, with its enlivening crack of ginger and clary sage, layered over mystical incense and calming sandalwood. They have two new fragrances launching soon, The Naga and The Nagi, so keep an eye out for them.
Before heading to Pitti I received several messages urging me to visit Eris Parfums, and I am so glad I did. Eris, named after the Greek goddess of troublemaking and disruption, harks back to those vintage-style perfumes but presents them with a modern twist. Founded in 2016 by vintage perfume lover Barbara Herman, the collection now includes eight fragrances plus a limited edition, each with its own strong identity. I was immediately captivated by Green Spell, a refreshing burst of lush greenery, woods and ambroxan that lifted the soul. Yet it was Mxxx that stole my heart, built around a large dose of ethically sourced ambergris. It feels vintage, elegant and sexy, with a spicy woody animalic character that is sure to make noses twitch – in the best way.
Other noteworthy new releases included Stéphane Humbert Lucas’s The Queen and The Viper, inspired by Cleopatra. This one intrigued me with its unusual juxtaposition: a cool minty opening that gradually sinks into a warm amber base. Sora Dora’s Lu Bu was a surprising assault on the senses with notes such as Armenian paper, blood and hot metal. It may not be to everyone’s taste as it veers away from their usual style, but it was nonetheless a standout scent. Tobba Parfums unveiled Lovers and Strangers, a deep, seductive gourmand with an addictive quality. Notes such as rum and prune combine with coffee and tobacco, and are sweetened with vanilla. It was an instant like for me.
And finally, the special guest of Pitti, Setchu founder Satoshi Kuwata, unveiled his debut collection of five fragrances created in collaboration with Julie Massé. I particularly adored 8AM Saturday Hinoki Buro, inspired by bathing in a tub made from hinoki wood. It opens with a warm steam accord, laced with woody fir needle nuances and a gentle soapy undertone.
As always, Pitti Fragranze was a feast for the senses and a reminder of just how diverse and dynamic the world of fragrance has become. From bold new concepts and playful packaging to scents steeped in memory and tradition, it was inspiring to see both established houses and emerging talents side by side. What struck me most this year was the true global flavour of the event, with brands from across Europe, Asia and beyond bringing their own unique voices to the stage. It left me not only with a notebook full of favourites but also a renewed excitement for where the art of perfumery is heading next.
Until next time Pitti!
BLU BLAZER GUY 